In every vibrant neighborhood of Puerto Vallarta, there’s a bustling shopping street that acts as a lifeline for the community, featuring a traditional mercado, or marketplace. In the charming barrio of Cinco de Diciembre, this essential hub of local life is located at the top of Calle San Salvador where it intersects with Calle Brasilia, just across from the barrio cemetery.
Approaching the mercado from the west along Calle San Salvador is an experience in itself. The street is lined with a variety of local businesses, including hardware stores, a bakery, a laundry, and several restaurants. By the time you arrive at the mercado building, you’ve already had a taste of the neighborhood’s charm.
The mercado, a large one-story concrete structure with an open central plaza, is a hive of activity and community. Inside, you’ll find an array of small, specialized vendors offering everything you need for daily life.
Some highlights include:
- Greengrocers: Among the half-dozen options, FruterÃa Hernández and Surtidora de Frutos Chaparita stand out for their selection and service.
- Fishmongers: PescaderÃa Plazola, often hailed as the best fish vendor in Puerto Vallarta, offers fresh seafood prepared to your specifications.
- Chicken Vendor: PollerÃa Poly not only provides high-quality poultry but also sells homemade Oaxacan mole—a treat not to be missed.
- Butchers: Two reliable options for your carnivorous cravings.
- TortillerÃa: A branch of La Hija del MaÃz allows you to watch tortillas being made fresh before purchasing.
- CremerÃa La Única: A dairy shop stocked with essentials.
- Odds-and-Ends: From small appliances to unique finds, there’s always something interesting here.
- Restaurants and Cafés: Perfect for grabbing a bite and soaking in the local atmosphere.
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More Than a Market: A Community Experience
What makes this mercado special is its role as a cornerstone of community life. While it might remind North Americans of a farmers’ market, the mercado’s permanent nature fosters a deep sense of belonging. Regular visits mean you’ll begin to recognize the vendors—and they’ll recognize you in turn.
Language Note: Most vendors primarily speak Spanish, so brushing up on key phrases will make your experience smoother and more enjoyable.
The cooperative spirit of the mercado is another standout feature. Vendors often assist each other and their customers, ensuring you find exactly what you need. One greengrocer may even point you to another stall if they don’t have what you’re looking for—try getting that kind of teamwork at a supermarket!
The Mercado Rhythm: Fresh, Imperfect, and Local
Unlike large grocery stores where everything is refrigerated and polished to perfection, the produce here is fresh, unpretentious, and meant to be used quickly. The mercado reflects a more European shopping philosophy: buying what you need for today or tomorrow, then returning for the next day’s meals.
For example, avocados aren’t displayed prominently. Instead, you’ll need to ask for them at the cash register. The vendor will then inquire about when you plan to use them and handpick ones that will ripen perfectly in time.
The fishmongers also go the extra mile. They’ll fillet, cube, grind, or otherwise prepare your selection however you need it. Shrimp? They’ll even peel and devein it for you upon request. It’s customary to tip for this added service—a small gesture of gratitude, typically 20 pesos for a half kilo or 50 pesos for a kilo of shrimp.
Tips for Visiting
- Bring cash, as most vendors don’t accept cards.
- Don’t rush—take time to soak in the lively, cooperative atmosphere.
- Practice a few Spanish phrases to enhance your interactions.
Whether you’re a long-time local or just visiting Puerto Vallarta, the mercado in Cinco de Diciembre offers a rich cultural and culinary experience that embodies the heart of Mexican community life. Make it a regular part of your routine, and you’ll find it’s not just a place to shop—it’s a place to belong.
